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The first step is to identify the type of pearl—freshwater, Akoya, or South
Sea, the three main pearl types used in jewelry. Each type of pearl is
produced by a different species of oyster, and each oyster lives in a
different region of the world under very specific climatic conditions.
Akoya Pearls
Akoya pearls are cultured saltwater pearls farmed mainly in Japan and
China. The Akoya pearl is prized for its deep luster. They range from 2mm to
10mm in size. Akoyas are the pearls used in most necklaces. Akoya overtone
colors are rose and green. The combinations of overtone and body colors
most often seen are white-rose; green; pink-rose, green; cream-rose,
green; yellow-green; rose. Common Akoya colors are white, yellow, pink, and
cream.
South Sea Pearls
Nearly all South Sea Pearls are cultivated. Australia, Myanmar, Indonesia and
other Pacific countries produce most of these fine pearls. Pearl divers
collect Mother of Pearl shells for pearl farms to use in the cultivation of
South Sea Pearls. South Sea cultivated pearls consist mostly of nacre. They
typically range in size from 10mm to 20mm and are valuable because of their
rarity and large size. White South Sea pearls tend to be the most expensive
cultured pearls.
Mabe Pearls
Mabe pearls are hemispherical cultured pearls grown against the inside
shell of an oyster rather than in the mollusk’s body. Mabe pearls are
typically used in settings such as earrings or rings that conceal their flat
backs. Mabe pearls are grown in Japan, Indonesia, French Polynesia and
Australia. Mabe or half pearls range from light pink to rose to bluish in color.
Freshwater Pearls
Freshwater pearls can be found in bays and rivers throughout the world.
They are cultivated from freshwater mollusks in China, Japan and the United
States. Sometimes less lustrous than saltwater pearls, their unique shapes
and colors and attractive prices have made them popular.
The general color of a pearl is also called the body color. Typical pearl
colors are white, cream, yellow pink, silver or black. A pearl can also have
a hint of a secondary color, or overtone, which is seen when light reflects
off the pearl surface. For example, a pearl strand may appear white, but
when examined, a pink overtone may become apparent.
Pearls produce an intense, deep shine called luster. This effect is
created when light reflects off the many layers of tiny calcium carbonate
crystals that compose the pearl. This substance is called nacre. When
selecting a pearl, consider that the larger the pearl, the more nacre it
has, so it will also exhibit even more luster. Compare a 5mm Freshwater
cultured pearl with a 10mm South Sea cultured pearl and the difference
in the amount of nacre is obvious. The difference in luster is as clearly
visible as the difference in the pearl sizes. Luster is a combination of
surface brilliance and a deep glow. The luster of good quality pearls
should be bright. You should be able to see your reflection clearly on
the surface of a pearl. Any pearl that appears too white, dull or chalky is
of low quality.
